"the call of the canyon"
Deb and I hike a lot. And when we hike, we like to wander "off trail" every-once-in-a-while to sneak just a different glimpse of God's creation. We often look at those non-pathed moments as worship -- the scenery, the sky, and the season are each presented in that privileged glimpse just for us, I believe. Nobody before, and nobody after, will see in that moment God's handiwork exactly the same way that we were able. What a blessing it is to be able to hike in so many Beautiful places around our country!
[Ken 09/15/2018] I don't often write about our hikes -- OK, maybe a few here and there. This blog entry is about one of those hikes. It is about Red Rock-Secret Mountain Wilderness Trail #108 -- The West Fork Trail in Sedona's Red Rock Country of central Arizona. Not only does trail #108 follow a picturesque stream that ripples its way back-and-forth along a riparian red-rock canyon floor; not only does trail rest at the base of towering and dizzyingly high cliffs; but the trail owns some entertaining Old West history as well. The creek and canyon was the setting for a Zane Grey novel, "The Call of the Canyon." And in 1942, Hollywood made a film along the creek that was based on Grey's novel.
On our route, we followed Oak Creek Canyon for about a half-mile before turning to follow the trail into the castle-like canyon of the West Fork of Oak Creek. Beneath the red rock formations we soon passed the ruins of a cabin built in 1870 by "Bear" Howard (so named because it is alleged he once killed four grizzly bears with only a knife and his bare hands). In 1926 the cabin was reconstructed to allow guests and was renamed The Mayhew Lodge. It was made famous by its list of distinguished visitors -- among others, Walt Disney, Clark Gable, and Jimmy Stewart each report having stayed at "The Mayhew."
On our route, we followed Oak Creek Canyon for about a half-mile before turning to follow the trail into the castle-like canyon of the West Fork of Oak Creek. Beneath the red rock formations we soon passed the ruins of a cabin built in 1870 by "Bear" Howard (so named because it is alleged he once killed four grizzly bears with only a knife and his bare hands). In 1926 the cabin was reconstructed to allow guests and was renamed The Mayhew Lodge. It was made famous by its list of distinguished visitors -- among others, Walt Disney, Clark Gable, and Jimmy Stewart each report having stayed at "The Mayhew."
The shady hike was lush and cool -- not like the other Arizona "heat hikes" we had enjoyed. For most of this hike, the monumental red-rock scenery twists and turns as it rises high above you on three sides, trapping the cool air inside. We noticed at one place that the canyon above us was more narrow than the canyon floor! We crossed the creek about 32 times (we lost count); at the end Gadget would just leap into the water (no stepping stones required). The climax of the trail is a small pool of water surrounded by beautiful, rounded-out sandstone cliffs. If you want to go farther you will have to hike and swim the next 2.5 miles, I understand.
I am a sucker for an imposing geology of spectacular swirls, texture, and colored rock formations, especially when laid out under a deep blue sky. So like usual, we took a lot of pictures (film processing is much more affordable for us these days). Here are some of my favorites from our hike on the West Fork Trail:
I am a sucker for an imposing geology of spectacular swirls, texture, and colored rock formations, especially when laid out under a deep blue sky. So like usual, we took a lot of pictures (film processing is much more affordable for us these days). Here are some of my favorites from our hike on the West Fork Trail:
CLICK ON ANY IMAGE ABOVE TO ENLARGE and SCROLL
As you can see by the photos, this is an exemplary hike. West Fork Trail is regarded (by those who know) to be the top out-and-back hiking trail in Arizona and one of the most scenic hiking trails in the United States. Trail signs notwithstanding, our more adventurous route took us 10.6 miles, roundtrip (shorter routes are available, however). The trail follows the West Fork of Oak Creek and is relatively level, though there are a few more strenuous, albeit short, climbs. The end of the trail is a slight 165 feet higher in elevation than the trailhead. Remarkably, Gadget hiked almost the entire trail -- Ken did not pick her up until mile-marker 9.45, and even then she was still going strong (albeit much more slowly). What an adventure dog she is!
[Ken 09/14/2018] Red rock cliffs. Mesquite. Iguana. Ocotillo. Warm breeze. Cactus. Mesas. Sunsets. Starry nights. We had before been through Arizona a half dozen times, but never stayed for more than a two or three days. This visit has been the longest -- and the best. These past few weeks we have done our deepest exploring of central Arizona. The high dessert of the forty-eighth state is certainly rich in history and landscape.
| In spite of our GRAND efforts, we did not get to see everything, mind you. The 'Grand Canyon State' is a pretty large place to explore (6th on the list of US States by size). In our free time from SOWERs, we did get around a bit -- In addition to GCNP (see August Blog), we found and visited several National Monuments, three state parks, and several more National Historic Places. And of course there is all of the colorful scenery that's in between! | |
| | Hot, dry, and dusty are the adjectives that we used the most. And we were in Arizona during the infamous Monsoon Season (yes, it did rain on us a few times). The temperatures reached the high 90's to 105ish every day, I think. But in the evening, it cooled down into the 70s and 80's -- that's when social hour begins for Arizonites, we learned. But by that time Deb and I were ready to start winding down for the day! |
After our stop at the Grand Canyon, we drove a section of the iconic Route 66. But we saw some lesser-known sites, too. In fact, these were our favorites. We enjoyed our time in Prescott, Williams, Sedona, Cottonwood, Jerome, and the Verde River Valley. Kayaking on Lake Watson required navigating a sea of giant boulders. At Dead Horse Ranch we hiked along the Verde River under a canopy of Creosote and Mesquite trees. In the upper Verde Valley we hiked in and around pueblo and cliff dwellings of the ancestors of the Apache, Yavapai, and Hopi Indians. East of Sedona, the trail to Chicken Point presented a breathtaking panorama of the most unique collection of red rock formations in the Southwest. In the Secret Wilderness, racing a rainstorm, I scrambled to the top of Devil's Bridge -- a towering sandstone arch!
To the west, precariously perched as if to slide off the side of the mountain, rests the self-proclaimed 'Mile High City' of Jerome. Jerome once embraced a booming copper mining industry. It now embraces a touristy and booming art district selling everything you can wear or sit on that is made of/with copper; it is very pretty stuff. Jerome reminded us of the way Central City, BlackHawk, Idaho Springs, and Cripple Creek (et.al.) used to "look and feel" before Colorado voted to allow gambling in those historic mining towns. We enjoyed Jerome so much that we visited twice! Yes, there is an ice cream shop!
To the west, precariously perched as if to slide off the side of the mountain, rests the self-proclaimed 'Mile High City' of Jerome. Jerome once embraced a booming copper mining industry. It now embraces a touristy and booming art district selling everything you can wear or sit on that is made of/with copper; it is very pretty stuff. Jerome reminded us of the way Central City, BlackHawk, Idaho Springs, and Cripple Creek (et.al.) used to "look and feel" before Colorado voted to allow gambling in those historic mining towns. We enjoyed Jerome so much that we visited twice! Yes, there is an ice cream shop!
| | Outside the cities, there are lots of creepy-crawlies. And who would have guessed that poison ivy can grow in the desert? Seems like there is a warning sign at every trailhead. Scorpions were the scariest to me. But the giant red ants weren't any fun, either. I was hoping to see a Gila Monster, or a Road Runner, but no luck. Gadget loved the trails -- she has taken to lizard chasing as a new hobby. For now, the squirrels are safe. |
We hiked in the mountains and the canyons. We walked where ancient civilizations walked. We climbed deep into Red Rock Country. We explored by kayak a lake of "floating" boulders. We toured historic towns. We toured scenic towns. And we camped in the desert with cliff and cactus for neighbors. Our central Arizona experience revealed there is a different kind of scenery here -- and it is ruggedly impressive. This part of Arizona may be hot, dry, and dusty, but it is a work of God. If you don't believe that this is a GRAND state, just read the license plates!
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[09/07/2018] Since we motored out of Colorado in 2015 to begin our Adventures in Faith, we have stayed in Faith (our motorhome) for 1000 nights! WooHoo! Our home-on-wheels has "camped" in all kinds of places. For a night's rest, we have pulled into casino parking lots, Walmart parking lots, one mall parking lot, rest areas, a couple Cracker Barrel parking lots, a few Cabela's parking lots, numerous public and private campgrounds, Ken's brother's back yard, and twenty-one ministry RV parks, of course. We have also camped at Winnebago where Faith was manufactured a couple times. In those 34 busy months we have traveled in Faith for more than 16,781 miles (plus another 40,123 miles in the Jeep) and visited 44 states (again).
In case you are interested, when we have not spent the night in Faith, we have been found in motels, staying with one of our kids, our parents, or even in a small travel trailer that we borrowed for a few days.
Can we make it to 2000 nights?!?
In case you are interested, when we have not spent the night in Faith, we have been found in motels, staying with one of our kids, our parents, or even in a small travel trailer that we borrowed for a few days.
Can we make it to 2000 nights?!?
 | happy birthday, gadget![09/02/2018] Today, Gadgette the Adventure Dog is ONE YEAR OLD. If she looks tired, it's because she has been in eleven states and traveled 9,747 miles this spring and summer. And she has hid our socks, sneaked human food, and puppy-adventured in all of those states. No wonder her tongue hangs out! She was a little shaky at first in the motorhome, but she had mastered her "sea legs" after about the first 1500 miles. If she is not riding in the passenger seat, she rides underneath Ken's desk. |
In this first year she saw her first snow, her first mountains, her first ocean, her first desert, and her first gift shoppe. She likes hiking, but has to be positioned on the trail between Ken and Deb and have the left side of the path for herself (her longest hike has been about 7.5 miles). She doesn't know what the big deal is about stopping at lighthouses and forts, but she likes drive-through coffee shops because the baristas will usually pass her a doggie treat through the open window.
We were surprised how much she liked the beach -- not so much to play in the water as to dig BIG holes in the sand. She has been kayaking several times, but doesn't know how to sit still. She has discovered that she likes drinking straight from a water bottle, salmon jerky, vanilla ice cream, and chasing lizards. Her favorite toy is the Wuuba. And for a lap dog, she likes to spend more time outside than inside, especially if it gives her the chance to run (followed by a snooze in a camp chair)!
We love you Gadget! Thank you for adding a such a fun new dimension to our dining/hiking/kayaking/exploring/travel experience! Touring these western states would not have been the same without you. Here are some pix for your scrapbook:
We were surprised how much she liked the beach -- not so much to play in the water as to dig BIG holes in the sand. She has been kayaking several times, but doesn't know how to sit still. She has discovered that she likes drinking straight from a water bottle, salmon jerky, vanilla ice cream, and chasing lizards. Her favorite toy is the Wuuba. And for a lap dog, she likes to spend more time outside than inside, especially if it gives her the chance to run (followed by a snooze in a camp chair)!
We love you Gadget! Thank you for adding a such a fun new dimension to our dining/hiking/kayaking/exploring/travel experience! Touring these western states would not have been the same without you. Here are some pix for your scrapbook:
CLICK ON ANY GADGET ABOVE TO ENLARGE and SCROLL
NOT The clan without water
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[Ken 09/01/2018] There are three National Monuments in the Camp Verde, Arizona, area. They are Tuzigoot, Montezuma Castle, and the Montezuma Well National Monuments. Together they illustrate the story of the "Sinagua" clan, the ancestors of the Hopi, Yavapai, and Apache indian tribes.
The combined culture survived in the valley from about 1130 to 1425AD. Historians do not actually know how these Verde Valley clans referred to themselves, so they were nicknamed "La Sierra Sin Agua," describing them by association to the nearby mountains "without water." Though the implication that they were a waterless civilization was inaccurate, the coined name "Sinagua" stuck.
The "Sinagua" settled the fertile area of the river valley by building in the cliffs as cliff dwellers, as well as on the desert floor near the river. Evidence of stone foundations and adobe walls are frequent along the hiking trails. The 5-story, 20-room, Montezuma Castle is the best preserved cliff dwelling that I have seen; it is the most prominent "Sinagua" structure in the area. Montezuma was never there, by the way.
The "Sinagua" settled the fertile area of the river valley by building in the cliffs as cliff dwellers, as well as on the desert floor near the river. Evidence of stone foundations and adobe walls are frequent along the hiking trails. The 5-story, 20-room, Montezuma Castle is the best preserved cliff dwelling that I have seen; it is the most prominent "Sinagua" structure in the area. Montezuma was never there, by the way.
Montezuma Well was a complete surprise to me. It is a large, limestone sink hole (like a crater) filled by an underground spring -- 1.6 million gallons of water flow through the sink every day. In spite of the surrounding desert, the area inside is cool and lush with vegetation. Ruins of several one- and two-room pueblo homes are visible. There is also a small cliff dwelling wedged in the western wall, inside the well (see arrow). Also visible is a small canal the tribe built to distribute cool, fresh water to the clans people who lived outside the sink.
Several miles further, Tuzigoot is a sizable pueblo ruin perched along the crown of a ridge that rises about 120 feet above the Verde River below. The structure was once two stories tall and had 87 rooms on its ground floor. There was only one vertical, exterior door -- access to the rest of the rooms was by ladder up the sides and to a horizontal opening in the roof of each room. Historians estimate that over 200 clans people lived at Tuzigoot. Most of the foundation is visible by walking path; one lower level room has been fully reconstructed. You can also climb to the second story level, if you wish. The summit of Tuzigoot offers a broad view of the Verde Valley below.
Nobody knows for sure why the civilization suddenly abandoned such a fertile farming area. When they left, however, there is evidence that the clans split into at least three separate groups. Those tribes would become what we know today as the Hopi, the Yavapai, and the Apache Indian nations.
Nobody knows for sure why the civilization suddenly abandoned such a fertile farming area. When they left, however, there is evidence that the clans split into at least three separate groups. Those tribes would become what we know today as the Hopi, the Yavapai, and the Apache Indian nations.
In spite of the tongue-in-cheek description in the adjacent picture, the triangular geography of the Sinaguan Nation is relevant. The distance from Tuzigoot to both the Well and the Castle is one day by foot, 20 miles by horseback. The distance from the Well to the Castle is less than half as far. |  |
another front |  |
We are here to serve at Rainbow Acres Ranch. Rainbow Acres is a residential Christian community serving adults with developmental disabilities. This is a first-class facility with an impressive mission. During our orientation this afternoon Deb and I were left speechless as we were exposed to some of the programs that they offer to the residents who live here. We are not yet sure where we will be working, but I think Deb is hoping for some time in the craft building! Whatever it is, we look forward to our time here for the next month.
